Rave reviews for The Art & Soul of Baking

Seattle Tall Poppy

An Interview with Cindy Mushet on the "Art & Soul of Baking"

Cindy Mushet's definitive book, the Art & Soul of Baking.

If you don't know the name Cindy Mushet, let me introduce you. She's one of those people in the background who makes amazing things happen. Her contributions may not always have her name blazed on them, but her impact is evidenced by a rich history in the culinary world. Cindy was a contributor to the Joy of Cooking, has taught throughout the United States for Sur La Table and is currently an instructor at Le Cordon Bleu. Her recipes have appeared in Bon Appétit, Fine Cooking, the New York Times, and the National Culinary Review.

Cindy's currently on a whistle-stop book tour...and coming to a Sur La Table near you!

During her 24 hour stay in Seattle, I had the opportunity to meet with Cindy and it was kismet from the beginning. We chatted over lunch and then strolled over to my favorite bakery for a little nosh. She was just days into her 3 week tour, and despite having already done an early morning TV spot, a pod cast interview and a newspaper interview, by the time we talked she was still a fireball of energy.

A long history of teaching permeates Cindy's culinary style. She understands how her students feel, going through the effort to bake something, only to fail with a dessert you can't serve. "That's when people go to Costco and pick up something cheap." But there are so many things wrong with cheap: desserts are packed with preservatives to extend the shelf life and the ingredients stray far from anything that might be good for you...or flavorful.

Her mission became: Teach a Man to Bake, Don't Give Him a Cake.

Warm and engaging, Cindy's got an analytical mind that probes with a laser focus until she lands on the answer. While there are some excellent baking books, many of them lack direction in the most basic steps. One of the most frustrating steps both she and her students struggled with was the familiar: cream butter until light & fluffy. "What does that mean?" In her frustration she surmised, "Butter never looks fluffy...or light." Eventually she learned "light" meant light in color, not texture. And "fluffy" spoke to the incorporation of air into the butter. It's that attention to the intention that makes her recipes a step above.

To perfect her baking, she applied a scientific approach -- baking cakes repeatedly, changing the ratios at each attempt. Then, she'd study the results and determine what yielded the best outcome.

This scientific approach came from an early influence by the San Francisco's Baker's Dozen group. At the time, she was living in Berkley and there were a number of bakers in the area. They'd gather and talk about issues they were having, "I'm having a problem with this dough...do you know anything about that?"

Eventually, the group gelled into something more formal. They'd meet once a quarter and learn from each other. Tackling Angel Food cake, for instance, each person brought a finished cake and the recipe. "You wouldn't believe the variety! They all fell under the category of Angle Food cakes, but they were so different." Getting to the heart of the differences, the group sampled each cake, decided which characteristics were ideal, and then compared recipes. Side by side, they'd see the ingredients were the same. "Okay, now what did you do differently?" They'd analyze the techniques that arrived at an excellent finished product. Not surprising, this process deeply influenced Cindy's approach to baking.

When she was first asked to write a book on baking, Cindy thought, "What could I say about baking that hasn't already been said?" After further reflection...and before she'd given a final answer, she tapped into her own collection of over 200 baking books. Laying multiple books out on the living room floor, she poured over them with an analytic approach ---what's here? What's missing? And most importantly, what did her Sur La Table students struggle with when using the recipes?

Because she had years of contact with students who are often unsure, she could see firsthand where the issues where, and modified her own recipes accordingly.

Then Cindy turned to the bible of cooking science, Harold McGee's On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. While the book is a treasure trove of information, admittedly, it's a very dry read.

So, Cindy asked herself, "How can I combine both solid recipes and provide enough information to help people understand the science behind what's going on?"

She was determined to prove success in baking is built on a solid foundation...not a fluke. Tapping into an analytical approach, combined with years of teaching, the result is her latest book, the Art and Soul of Baking.

It hits the mark on every level.

In fact, she gives a lot of credit to Sur La Table, who was the impetus behind the project. They were very "hands off" in the creation of this book. None of the directions were cropped or modified to save space. And they gave her the time necessary to create a book of substance. Two years to write it, one year for editing means this book is much more than just a collection of recipes.

Baker's Dozen alum, Alice Medrich, wrote the forward and she highlights two key points: the chart for Baking Pan Volumes (What's the difference between a 9 x 1" Pyrex pie pan and a 9 x 1 1/2" Emily Henry fluted pie pan? It's here.) And a handy chart that converts measuring cups and spoons into exact weights. Alice notes, "The book's two essential double-page charts should be photocopied and hung inside a cupboard door for easy reference." Taking a cue from Alice, mine are laminated and stuck to the side of the refrigerator...and I refer to them, regularly.

The Art & Soul of Baking is packed with relevant information designed to bring success into the kitchen. Whether you're a novice or a seasoned baker, I found her discussion on the Eight Main Ingredients invaluable. And the photos for bread dough detailing the different stages: underrisen, perfectly risen, and overrisen doughs provides the visual cues necessary when conquering the land of yeast. Tips in the margins, "What the Pros Know" layers the knowledge base, providing multiple "ah-ha!" moments.

I consider myself a fairly accomplished baker and I've got dozens of books on the subject. Frankly, this is the book I have been looking for. Cindy is a perfect guide -- explaining not just how, but why. Surely I'd be a better baker today if I'd had this book sooner.

The good news is, there's still plenty for me to learn. And with Cindy as my guide, next up...conquering my fear of yeast!

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Baking Bites:

The Art and Soul of BakingThe Art and Soul of Baking is a new book from Sur La Table’s relatively young cookbook line. Things Cooks Love was published earlier this year and another book, Knives Cooks Love, is due out at the end of this month. The store is known for its top quality kitchenware, so it’s no surprise to see them putting it to good use in a book like this one.

The Art and Soul of Baking a huge compendium of all things baked. The book has nearly 300 recipes in its 464 pages, as well as tons of information about kitchen equipment and ingredients. The introduction to the book is broken up into two parts and is the main reference section. The Baker’s Kitchen chapter is primarily dedicated to describing the use and purpose of various pieces of baking-related kitchen equipment, and also gives weight and volume conversion tables. The Baker’s Pantry chapter is dedicated to ingredients, describing how things are made, what the flavors are like and how to use them.

The recipes are broken down into chapters by type, and are all well-written. At the beginning of each chapter there is a little primer on how to be as successful as possible with your cakes, breads, souffles, etc. The instructions are descriptive and there are plenty of tips given in the sidebars to help make the process as easy as possible. The book also makes note of possible variations on each recipe. There are plenty of full-page photographs in the book, and while they are excellent shots, not every recipe is covered. Overall, it’s a nice book that will give the reader plenty of recipe options and some great reference material, the sheer size of the book is a little intimidating, even though the clear writing and friendly tone will keep a reader engaged once he or she starts to flip through the pages. The book’s author, Cindy Mushet, has a blog set up that is a great way to get a preview of the book.

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Apartment Therapy The Kitchn:

The Art & Soul of Baking by pastry genius Cindy Mushet is October's Cookbook Club selection over at Gourmet.com. In conjunction with the book, they also offer up a short video on how to make individual bittersweet chocolate souffles. The clip is chock full of baking tips and very, very precise instructions.

In less than 10 minutes you will learn:

• when to whisk in the flour in a béchamel sauce; indeed, you will learn exactly how to make the entire béchamel sauce
• precisely what a soft peak looks like as compared with a stiff peak (hint: it has nothing to do with the peak)
• what it means to rain (rein?) in the sugar
• why you should completely coat the inside of the souffle dish with butter
• how to fold in (the perfectly peaked) egg whites

I'm a former pastry chef (long ago and far away) and still I learned a lot from this video.

If that's not enough for you, you can continue with another short clip with several great tips like how to soften brown sugar, test your baking powder and soda and keep your scones from burning on the bottom.

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Gourmet:

The stakes are simply higher when it comes to baking. A less-than-stellar soup or sauce can be saved at the last minute with an extra pinch of salt or some fresh herbs, but bad baked goods tend to be total disasters—a tough piecrust, a heavy cake, an unrisen yeast dough—and leave you with little to do but dump them into the trash and start again. So when a baking book in which the recipes perform as flawlessly as they do in The Art and Soul of Baking (Andrews McMeel Publishing; 454 pages; $40) comes out, we're particularly impressed.

Lots of love and effort went into this book from the upscale kitchen store Sur La Table, which is no surprise considering its author is Chez Panisse alum and longtime California baking instructor Cindy Mushet. Her recipes, which strike just the right balance between novelty and simplicity, are each broken down into information-packed sections that are a boon to the home baker: An equipment sidebar tells you everything you'll need up front; a "getting ahead" section enumerates which steps can be done in advance and mentions what freezes well. Ingredients are listed in traditional cup and tablespoon fashion, as well as in weight measures (for the serious baker); follow-up paragraphs offer recipe variations.

If there's any weakness here, it's perhaps too much emphasis on equipment: You don't truly need a stand mixer for every recipe that calls for it, and when Mushet instructs you, in the blueberry clafoutis recipe, for example, to get out a baking sheet for the sole purpose of holding raw blueberries while you pick through them, she crosses the line into micromanagement. But even this criticism feels like hairsplitting, given such consistently wonderful recipes. A smart one for pumpkin walnut bread can be whipped up quickly using only pantry ingredients. A silky butterscotch pie is a taste of nostalgia that's not too sweet, and a pizza crust comes together almost effortlessly. It's the time of year when baking feels right again, and this is just the book to provide inspiration throughout the months ahead.

Selected recipes:

• Bittersweet Chocolate Soufflés with Vanilla Custard Sauce
• Butterscotch Pie
• Graham Cracker Crumb Pie Crust
• Chocolate Chip Cookies
• Pumpkin Walnut Bread

Watch videos of Cindy: http://www.gourmet.com/

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Library Journal:

The Art and Soul of Baking by Sur La Table with Cindy Mushet receives a starred review in the September 15 issue of Library Journal:

Mushet, a talented pastry chef, cooking teacher, and author of the excellent Desserts: Mediterranean Flavors, California Style, presents the latest book from the Sur La Table team, following Things Cooks Love. Like Malgieri's book, it covers both sweet and savory baking, but it includes far more information. Two lengthy introductory chapters cover techniques, equipment, and ingredients, and dozens of sidebars on "Tips for Success" and "What the Pros Know" offer further helpful insider advice. Recipes range from basics such as Quick Puff Pastry and Classic Sugar Cookies to unusual and appealing treats like Malted Milk Chocolate Tart; most of them include make-ahead information, and many also have variations. There are striking color photographs throughout, as well as step-by-step technique photos. Mushet's style is engaging and never intimidating. Essential.

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Associated Press:

Crank up the oven, it's baking season

By J.M. HIRSCH, AP Food Editor

Cooler weather often is incentive enough to get people baking. But for those who need an extra push, the latest batch of baking cookbooks offers plenty of inspiration to get you in the mood. Here are the highlights:

"The Art & Soul of Baking" by Cindy Mushet and Sur la Table

If you buy just one new baking book this season, make it this one. Gorgeously illustrated and exhaustively comprehensive, "The Art & Soul of Baking" covers everything from essential equipment (after all, Sur la Table is a kitchen supplies retailer) and pantry staples to chapters on savory breads, quick breads, tarts, pies, cookies and cakes, to name just a few.

The recipes are exceedingly detailed and include do-ahead tips, notes on equipment needed, advice on storing the finished treats and suggestions for variations. Reading this is a pleasant and enticing baking education.

Mushet's recipes for Rustic Olive and Thyme Bread and Nine-grain Whole-wheat Harvest Bread were easy to follow and produced delicious, attractive loaves.

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Booklist:

The Art and Soul of Baking by Sur La Table with Cindy Mushet is reviewed in the September 1 issue of Booklist:

Despite the titles appeal to emotional and aesthetic urges, this baking guide determinedly concentrates on the scientific knowledge that underpins everything that an accomplished baker produces. That focus radiates throughout the text of this totally accessible and eminently useful introduction to breads, pastries, pies, cookies, cakes, custards, and souffles. Mushet is determined to explain in detail the whys and wherefores of baking, recommending that even tyros learn to measure flour and similar ingredients by weight rather than volume. She provides comprehensive glossaries of baking equipment and components that intelligently address just about any question a novice might raise. In addition to listing ingredients, quantities, and techniques, each recipe inventories equipment necessary to execute the recipe successfully, making it unnecessary to search the full recipe to find out what pans and appliances to use. Mushet also provides informative sidebars that share professional bakers secrets. Very valuable for cookery reference collections. —Mark Knoblauch

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Gourmet:

Andrews McMeel Publishing is proud to announce that The Art and Soul of Baking by Sur La Table with Cindy Mushet has been chosen the October selection for the Gourmet Cookbook Club. Watch for that issue of Gourmet to hit newsstands and a feature to appear on gourmet.com in mid-September.

Gourmet started the Cookbook Club in an attempt to help its readers "cut through the clutter" of the 24,000 cookbooks published each year, according to Editor in-chief Ruth Reichl. The magazine's editors choose a book each month that offers "imaginative insight and delicious results."

Reichl said she and her staff established the club in response to the overwhelming number of cookbooks published in the United States. "Tons of cookbooks come pouring in here all the time," she told Publishers Weekly. "Every time we find one we really love we say, 'We ought to share this with other people." Reichl considered adding cookbook reviews to Gourmet but decided a book club would be more inclusive of readers and Gourmet's online community.

Books chosen for the new club, which launched in June, are marked with a Gourmet plate shaped seal to indicate they are official selections. In addition, at the book club's home page, gourmet.com/cookbookclub, visitors can find more recipes from the books and videos of the authors demonstrating recipes from their books.

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PublishersWeekly:

The Art and Soul of Baking by Sur La Table with Cindy Mushet has received a starred review on publishersweekly.com:

http://www.publishersweekly.com/article/CA6589717.html

LIFESTYLE

The Art and Soul of Baking
Cindy Mushet. Andrews McMeel, $40 (464p)
ISBN 9780740773341

Veteran pastry chef Mushet puts her decades of experience to work in this dense, informative baking guide from Seattle-based gourmet cookware retailer Sur La Table...opening with a comprehensive overview of crucial equipment and a 30 page guide to pantry stocking (butter, flour and sugar get three pages each, chocolate gets five). Covering all aspects of the baking spectrum, Mushet gives yeast-based breads, quick breads, cookies and bars, layered pastries and other specialties their turn, doing admirable work with standards like pizza dough and dinner rolls, as well as trendier riffs like pesto rolls and rustic olive and thyme bread that give cooks room to stretch in each category. Mushets invaluable lessons in ensuring oven accuracy, incorporating butter into dough for layered pastries (with step-by-step photos) and the causes of falling soufflés will get novices up to speed, and experts ready to tackle Mushets compelling cheesecake batter-in-a-food-processor technique will find her inventive hors doeuvre Stilton Cheesecake with Port-Braised Pears a big hit at the next cocktail party. Those already comfortable with baking will get the most out of the books 250 recipes, but there are plenty of dishes well within the reach of those new to Crème Brulee and lemon bar construction, making this a great volume to learn and grow with. (Sept.)

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What they're saying about The Art & Soul of Baking

"In The Art and Soul of Baking, Cindy Mushet is like a fine painter, using the broad palette of her expertise to convey a bright spectrum of recipes and solid techniques that will inspire and delight every baker."  —Flo Braker, author of Baking for All Occasions: A Treasury of Recipes for Everyday Celebrations and Sweet Miniatures: The Art of Making Bite-Size Desserts

"Some books have great practical information and some have great recipes, but The Art and Soul of Baking has both—and it's beautiful. Learning to be a better baker just became easy, fun, and very delicious." —Dorie Greenspan, author of Baking From My Home to Yours

"Cindy Mushet has put together an impressive masterpiece on baking. With tips and tricks for everything from making the fanciest dough, to deep, dark chocolate brownies, to fruit-studded muffins that will rise above all others, The Art and Soul of Baking is an outstanding collection of recipes and technical advice that will certainly become one of the most well-used books in any baker's kitchen, as it has in mine." —David Lebovitz, author of The Great Book of Chocolate

 

"From baking basics to advanced tips that take baking to a whole new level, The Art and Soul of Baking covers everything anyone needs to know to be a great baker. It should be on all our bookshelves. It is on mine so I can refer to it for a quick reference from 'What the Pros Know,' or to make the Morning Buns to start my day off right or the Peanut Butter Thumbprints with Peanut Caramel for an afternoon pick-me-up." —Emily Luchetti, author of Classic Stars Desserts: Favorite Recipes

"I've been using high-quality baking tools from Sur la Table for years, and now I can add its all-purpose baking book to my collection. The photos alone are worth the price, but Cindy Mushet's easy-to-follow recipe descriptions and nurturing voice make this a book everyone will want to actually use and not just look at." —Peter Reinhart, author of Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor

"Cindy Mushet has put together an incredible compilation of sweet and savory recipes, full of all sorts of extra information that put this beautiful book in a league of its own. She is more than a great baker—she's a superb teacher. The tips she shares, in the most straightforward, precise, yet down-to-earth manner, will make anyone who uses The Art and Soul of Baking, whether a home cook or a professional, a better baker." —Sherry Yard, executive pastry chef, Wolfgang Puck Worldwide

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Contact: Aimee Bianca, YC Media: (212) 609-5009, aimee@ycmedia.com

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The Art and Soul of Baking

Authors: Sur La Table with Cindy Mushet
ISBN: 978-0-7407-7334-1
Format: Hardcover: 8 ½ x 10 ½, 464 pages
Price: $40.00 U.S.A. ($44.00 Canada)